The name “Anita” comes from the Hebrew name “Hannah”, meaning “grace”. The Arctic Dolphin Anita Squonk TC Mod has so many colour options (of frames and panels) to choose, that you might call it “graceful”, since it can be adapted to your preferences (even to your occasional mood, if you buy more than one panel colours).
Arctic Dolphin Anita is a regulated squonk mod, powered by a single 21700/20700/18650 battery. Very light-weight indeed, since it is entirely made of hard (high strength) thermoplastic ABS (Acrylonitrile-Butadiene-Styrene), its 510-pole excluded, of course. It’s big, though, especially for smaller palms/shorter fingers.
Left photo: Size comparison with the Aleader Killer and the Hotcig RSQ regulated squonk mods. Right photo: Inside the left-hand palm.
Arctic Dolphin Anita Squonk TC MOD Specs
- Temp Control range: 200-600℉（100-315℃）
- Watts range: 5-100W
- TC Resistance Range: 0.06-1.0ohm
- Watts Resistance Range:0.1-3.0ohm
- Screen Size:0.96 inch Black+White OLED Screen
- Max Output Voltage:9V (buck-boost converter)
- Max Output Current:40A
- Charge Input USB Voltage Range:4.75-5.5V
Arctic Dolphin Anita Packaging List
- an 18650 battery adaptor,
- an 8ml liquid-capacity silicone squonk bottle,
- an additional front panel with no squonking window on it (soon you’ll see why),
- a micro-usb cable for changing the battery inside the mod and for firmware upgrading,
- a warranty card and a very basic manual.
Arctic Dolphin Anita Operational Characteristics
It hosts a 0.96in B+W OLED screen of adjustable brightness. It can be adjusted to be so bright, that it can easily be readable under direct sunlight. Screen’s form factor is suitable for displaying large enough indication values. There is no stealth mode. But, after 10sec the display slightly dims and turns off after 30sec (for battery saving). Then, the mod stays on standby mode for 30min. After that, it shuts down completely.
Arctic Dolphin Anita can be operated with a single 20700 or a 21700 battery, providing up to a 100W of maximum power (as claimed by the manufacturer). It can also be used with a single 18650 battery with the included tube adaptor. But, since this tube doesn’t carry any venting holes, you better insert the 18650 battery’s negative pole into the tube adaptor, so that the battery’s positive pole to be out of the tube for adequate venting (just in case!).
It can take on board any BF RDA of up to 25mm-diameter (without any overhanging). But, since the mod comes with an additional front panel with no squonking window on it, by replacing the initially installed squonking panel with it, you can also turn Anita mod into a “usual” regulated box mod for mounting up an RTA, a dripper or a clearomizer.
All panels carry two magnets (there must be a metallic surface inside the internal plastic housing’s top and bottom). There is no panel rattling at all and that is mostly due to the part of the frame’s design where the “Anita” logo is “molded” at both sides of the mod (smart design).
Arctic Dolphin Anita Modes of operation
It is equipped with the usual VW / TC (Ni, Ti, SS, TCR) / BYPASS modes.
The mod turns on (5 fire-button clicks) with the VW (power) mode selected, the first time. Every next time, the mod turns on to the last mode used. With 3 fast clicks of the fire button each time, you get to the next mode of operation. In each mode, press and hold the + and – buttons together to enter the mod’s menu. Finally, press the fire button for 2sec to return to the main screen.
Pressing the fire and – buttons together for 2sec, you can adjust the mod’s internal resistance (with the +/- buttons). This is altering the actual current drive to your atomizer’s coil, under the already selected power adjustment. It substantially changes the coil’s heating. Then, press the fire button for 2sec to return to main screen.
Under power mode, you can choose three preset power-level vaping modes (HARD, NORM, SOFT). Just keep pressed the + and – buttons and then press the fire button to select the power level. Select your preferable vaping mode with the +/- buttons. Then, long press the fire button to go back to main power interface screen.
Under TC mode, it takes 4 clicks of the fire button to enter the adjustment of the wattage (with +/- buttons). It also automatically switches to power mode with non-TC coils.
Under power or TC modes, pressing the fire and + buttons together locks/unlocks the mod.
There is also a VPC (Variable Power Curve) mode, with which you can adjust the wattage values per second of your puff’s duration. Unfortunately, there is nothing mentioned about it in the manual or anywhere else. So, I will explain its adjustment, as it is a very useful operation mode for actually configuring the vapour’s density/temperature during each puff.
VPC mode presents 6 adjustable consecutive wattage values. The factory-set curve starts with 40W and then it is adjusted to 30W, 25W, 35W 25W, 35W successively (at least with the first firmware). For your personal adjustment, use 4 fast clicks of the fire button to activate the modification of the variable power curve. Press the +/- buttons to modify the first value. Then, by pressing the fire button to accept it, it moves to the next power value to be modified (the same way).
Arctic Dolphin Anita also has a pass-through operation (supports vaping while charging).
The Continuous Vaping Time (puff time cut-out) adjustment is 3sec-20sec.
Protection indications: short circuit, check atomizer, low battery, new atomizer, high/low resistance value of the coil (in TC mode), electronic board’s (PCB) high temperature (over 70oC).
Every time you insert a battery, 5 clicks of the fire button are needed for powering on the mod (it is not automatically turned on, as with other mods). Manufacturer’s recommendation is to use a 30A battery (at least).
There are no leakage issues at all, except when refilling the squonk bottle, as will be mentioned below.
Some not so-user-friendly characteristics
- The thermoplastic ABS frame doesn’t provide any heatsinking to the onboard RDA (it is thermo-isolating). So, the onboard RDA surprisingly increases its temperature and, therefore, also the temperature of the mod’s 510-pole. Thus, the PCB’s overheating protection is easily activated, when chain vaping in power mode (even at around 40W on coils around 0.5Ω).
- The back panel (although removable) cannot actually be removed, unless you first remove the battery. The installed back panel doesn’t carry the small cut at its bottom, as the additional panel does, to insert your fingernail and pull it out. If the back panel had such a small cut at its bottom side, it could be easily removed with the battery inside the mod. Thus, you could take advantage of the existing hole of the internal housing of the mod, behind the bottle, to push the bottle out for refilling it quite easier. But the manufacturer missed this. Actually, this hole could be quite larger, since there is no reason not to be.
- Silicone squonk bottle:
Its metal cap doesn’t have any knurls for your fingers to stumble over, when unscrewing/screwing it.
The metal “ring” around the bottle’s neck (where its cap is screwed on) has a outer diameter smaller than that of the silicone bottle. So, when you have filled the bottle up and you’re trying to screw the cap back on, liquid is over-spilled from the bottle’s tube, because your fingers “squeeze” (even slightly) the silicone bottle, too. Thus, don’t top-fill the bottle.
The squonk bottle is housed deep inside the mod’s internal plastic housing and cannot easily be reached by your ring finger for squeezing it (when you hold the mod at your left palm and you’re pressing the fire button with your thumb at the same time). This is actually a problem of the size of the mod and the significant depth of its internal housing. But, such a depth is necessary for hosting a 21700 battery. However, the functionality problem (when squeezing the bottle) does exist. The design should confront the problem by a squonk bottle’s housing not so deep, as the housing of the battery.
The bottle cannot easily be removed from its hosted position inside the mod for refilling it, when the battery is also inside the mod. You need to insert a “pin” behind its metal cap to pull the bottle out.
I am not in the vaping business. I found vaping as the escape door from my 25 years of smoker’s imprisonment. It just took me four days of attempting to totally get out of it, thanks to the appropriate –for me- “equipment” (includes e-liquids). Now, vaping “equipment” has become another one of my fields of interest, for helping others to discover, on their own, their personally appropriate “equipment”.
I am a hands-on enthusiast… by genes. I am triggered by everything that evokes any data already stored in my knowledge base, been a Physicist and an Electronics Engineer (for more than 35 years). I am intrigued by everything new that my knowledge-filter considers interesting enough to be analyzed for entering into my memory compartment. That’s why you will find me open-minded and out-of-the-box thinking. I have an urge for unfolding hidden “pictures” of design thinking on everything man-made.